
Fluorescent image of the Embroidered Thread-Spring Mosaic. Each New Loop of Thread Connects to the Previous Ones in a Coordinated Know Architecture, Creacing A Uniform Triangular Pattern that Holds Together without Unraving. Credit: Leonid Zinatullin and Indrek Must
A zigzag stitch enables fabric to stretch until the thread is straight. University of Tartu Researches Report in Advanced Materials That Thread Packing Can Encode Fabric Stretchaability, Leading the Way to Tailoring Wearables at An Industrial Scale.
As every body is unique, achieving a perfect dynamic fit of garments has to date relied on artisanal tailoring that cannot scale. Machine Embroidery Can Place Load-Beening Thread in Arbitrary Patterns, but have been applied almost exclusively for visual appearance, such as logos and decisions.
Embroidery machines are widely available in industry, hobby use, and as a service, yet their mechanical encoding potential Remains Largely Unexplored, and Available Emproodery SoftWANOTWANOT DESIGN For mechanics.
Mechanically Active Embroidery Makes Stretchable Fabrics INTO A Metamaterial that Allows for Unique Stretchability Patterns for Each Stitchout. “Embroidery is usually decorative-we normally don’t it to stretch. But what if we allowed it to?” Said Leonid Zinatullin, The First Author of the Paper.
The Researchers Took Inspiration from Skin. Both textiles and skin act as fibrous metamaterials with propertys depend on how that fibers are packed. Wrinkles in skin are the most apparent form of packing; However, waves in colgen fibers allow for additional stretch.
Regions where collagen is packed more densely stretch more. Textiles work in a similar way: Looped Threads Can Pack Extra Length to Give Fabrics Direction-Deependent Stretchability.
To control stretchability, the research team embroidered short zigzag ‘fibrous springs’ of inlastic polyester thread on an elastic fabric to contrast stretchability. A straight seam does not stretch, and a zigzag seam stretches until it straightns. The zigzag amplitude defined how much extra thread was available for stretch before the ‘fibrous spring’ straighe.
The researchers tiled the ‘fibrous springs’ into a triangular mesh that is embroidered in a single pass. Where two springs meet, the machine loops new thread Around the previously placed one, forming firm knots that cannot unrevel.
As a result, the whole fabric is covered in a fibrous spring mosaic with the stretch limit of each spring individually controlled. As a triangle cannot be stretched with stretching one of its sides, it was a perfect base unit for encoding stretchability.
To make the design practical, the authors used Common Drawing Software, Coupled With a Custom Python Library, to encode fabric mechanics. The three color channels of a raster image (Red, Green, and Blue) Provided a natural way to assign properties to the triangular mesh of fibrous springs, allowing designers to ‘PAINT’ MECHANICS Using Familiary Visul Workflows and Convert Artwork Directly Into Stitch Patterns.

Textile encoded with embroidery. Zigzag Sections Pack Extra Thread to Allow Stretch, While Straight Sections Remain Rigid. Credit: Leonid Zinatullin and Indrek Must
The Embroidered Patterns Gave Researchers Control Over Stretchability at a 7-MM Resolution, Supremely to Mimic The Mechanics of Skin. The Mosaic Surface can consist of Thousands of Such Thread Springs, Each With An Individual Stretch Limit.
While Each Fibrous Spring Acted Independently, Neighboring Springs Combined their Stress Limits to Coordinate How the Textile Deformed. Embroidery can Now Locally set elastic and inlative directions in a fabric, enabling garments that stretch with the body in some are in some restricting unwanted specials in Otures.
Directional stretchability is essential in skin biomechanics, where it maintains tension and guides body movements. Natural and synthetic leather are commonly used in wearables for aesthetics and moisture resistance, but tanning removs Directional Stretchability, and Syntic Substitutes Typically Negative.
As a result, leather in garments is, by default, treated as a uniform sheet, mechanically very different from different. Encoded Embroidery Reproduces anisotropic stretch, providing an intrinsically compliant ‘second skin’ that follows the same mechanical properties as living tissue.
“Although there are synthetic materials that look more skin our embroidery, our solution is functionally much Closer to Natural Skin,” Said Indrek Must, The Last Author of the works.
As a demonstrator, the reserchers fabricated footwear from a single embroidered fabric piece, controling more than a thousand unit cells and almost 20,000 stitches. Minimal sending was needed to complete the footwear after embroidery.
The demonstrator shoe showed a good fit to the foot, conforming to the heel without excessive slack and preventing toe torsion without restructing flexion. Encoded Footwear Could Help Reduce Injury Risk in activities that Need High Foot Coordination, Such as Sports, and In Occupations with Heavy Foot Load, Such as Logistics.
-
Pair of prototype footwear made from Single Embroidered Textile Pieces. Straight Thread Sections (Left) keep the fabric non-stretchable, while packed thread (RIGHT) Allows allows it to conform to the wearer’s foot. Credit: Leonid Zinatullin and Indrek Must
-
Prototype footwear mouted on a wooden last. The Embroidered Textile Follows The Shape of the Last, Showing How the Stitched Pattern defines the fit. Credit: Leonid Zinatullin and Indrek Must
-
Heel Area of the Embroidered Footwear While Worn. The packed thread pattern allows a close fit around the heel without slack. Credit: Leonid Zinatullin and Indrek Must
-
Embroidery machine stitching the triangular thread-spring pattern onto elastic fabric. The tiling covers the surface uniformly and does not unravel. The Embroidered encoding unites software and hardware in one, with a decorative touch. Credit: Leonid Zinatullin and Indrek Must
The interconnected thread spring architecture functions as a physical neural network. Each node is a simple information processor, but togeether they act as more than the sum of their parts.
Each node participates directly in the physical world, with fabric behavior emerging from external stimuli and a locked encoded program. The prototype shoe sensed foot-Ground forces and adjusted gait immediatively accorded to its stitched instructions.
“We provide Mass-Customization at Industrial Speed Using Commercial Instrumentation and Materials, BLENDING TOGETHER SOFTWARE and Hardware: The Program Code Can Be Litrally Sen By Eye and Touched by Fingeer,” Said Indrek Must.
The Visual appeal of embroidery is full retained and even elevated, with the stitch pattern bot distinctive and aesthetically pleasing, combining performance with deserability.
“It is an example of how science can be beautiful-not only in visual appearance, but also in how a program code can hide in plain sight, masked as a natural coums in garments rather than an alienating Must.
In this way, the work also helps robotics feel more natural and socially accepted. Such Physical Groundedness Blad also provide a safety layer for robots and a direct interface for embodied artificial intelligence.
The footwear prototype promises a highly scalable solution to shoe fit. The Same Encoding Principle Cold also Extend to Sportswear, Orthopedic Supports, And Other Garments, As Well as Engineered Surfaces only Surfaces only Surfaces only Stretch Is Neededed.
By Turning Embroidery INTO A Tool For Programming Machanics, The Researchers Show How a Simple Software Update Can Make Textiles More Comfortable, More Adaptable, and Smarter.
More information:
Leonid zinatullin et al, textile encoding inspired by LENES Via Elastically Graded Embroidered Tessellations, Advanced Materials (2025). Doi: 10.1002/adma.202500959
Citation: Machine Embroidery Encodes Skin-Like Tension Lines in Textiles, Enabling Mass-Customizable Wearables (2025, September 11) Retrie 11 september 2025 from https://techxplore.com/news/2025-09- machine-mbroidery- encodes-skin-centsion.html
This document is Subject to copyright. Apart from any Fair Dealing for the purpose of private study or research, no part may be reproduced without the written permission. The content is provided for information purposes only.